This land is an illusion, because it is not stable: it walks.

Brecks3 Jul 23

Or at least, it used to, when the wind knocked the sand about. It is the English steppe – Breckland, the strange, sandy, sprawling loneliness on the Suffolk / Norfolk border. Until relatively recent attempts to stablise it with trees, its inland sand dunes wandered like coastal dunes still do, sometimes with spectacular consequences. In the 17th century, the village of Santon Downham was almost swallowed up entirely.

These days, most of Breckland is used for forestry or farming or given over to nature conservation. Settlements are few. Amidst the starkness, some of the rarest and oddest creatures in the country lurk. They are not easy to spot, or to photograph – even with a 600mm lens. They are just a summer presence in the heather, huge yellow eyes aflame.

Stone curlew2 Jul 23

The bizarre stone curlew is a nocturnal wader with a stronghold in Breckland, a fitting celebrity in a landscape so stern. It is also apt that they depend on rabbits to keep the grass short enough to suit their needs. Everything in Breckland revolves around rabbits, which were introduced here in medieval times for warrening. A 600 year old tower to guard against armed rabbit poachers still stands near Thetford.

Much more delicate are flowers such as harebell.

Harebells Jul 23

And viper’s bugloss, blue pointing to blue. Apparently its name derives from its supposedly snake-like stem markings.

Vipers bugloss Jul 23

It is easier to understand how the hummingbird hawkmoth was named.

Hummingbird hawkmoth2 Brecks Jul 23

Walking through the Brecks can feel like participating in a light show: damselflies and dragonflies of all hues rush past your shadow. Labyrinth spiders lurk in huge webs in the heather, and deer leave hoofprints in the sand. There’s always something watching under the vast Breckland sky.

Juvenile stonechat

Gorse and bird

11 responses to “Steppe”

  1. A lovely trip on the steppes, Adele. I wonder why it supposedly moves (or moved). Is it boggy way under it?

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    1. It was just the sand growing and moving with the wind, same as it does in active dune systems on the coast. I’ll edit to make it a little clearer.

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      1. Oh, that makes sense. Here I was thinking it was like bogs. Thanks for the clarification.

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  2. Beautiful landscapes, Adele, looks like a lovely wild land.

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    1. It’s a strange place but quite unforgettable. It’s also important to me because my ancestors fought the sand to farm there for 600 years!

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      1. I can’t imagine having roots that deep! Something Americans lost in the migration, I guess.

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  3. I didn’t know about this area of England – it looks like Saskatchewan!

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    1. Yes, it does! The steppes of eastern Europe are ecologically similar to the prairies, but I think people often forget that western and northern Europe was also largely treeless during the Pleistocene. The European wildwood was partly the result of mammoths going extinct; before then it was much more Saskatchewan-ish.

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  4. I enjoyed my introduction to Breckland. It sounds and looks wonderful!

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    1. Thank you Belinda. Definitely worth exploring if you should ever end up on this side of the pond 🙂

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