Once upon a time, as I wrote last summer, there was an unseemly square of woodchips housing a few invasive plants under a crumbling canopy. It is easy to think ‘meadow potential!’ – but getting there has meant clearing up, bringing in over half a tonne of nutrient-poor soil, and a fair deal of time watching dry hot skies.

But it’s getting there. From this:

Garden2

To now:

Garden meadow1 June 23

And it’s been found. Having a nearby wild grassland is certainly helpful, but even so, the buzzing things have been quick off the mark. Damselflies, dragonflies, butterflies, beeflies, hoverflies – and many others that are reminding me that I need to get much better at invertebrate ID.

Garden meadow4 June 23

This, at least, is a meadow brown.

Garden meadow3 June 23

I’m pleased with it, although it might take a few more years for it to properly bed in. From a wider ecological perspective, a garden meadow will never compensate for the threats to the remnants of England’s semi-wild grassland – it is an oft-quoted statistic that 98% of our lowland meadows have been destroyed – but they do clearly benefit wildlife, and in a more balanced, habitat-grounded way than simply putting out birdfeeders. And of course, they are lovely to share the garden with.

Some advice for anyone else considering such an idea:

  1. Commercial seedmixes are often advertised as ‘meadow’ when they are really just a mishmash of colourful plants that wouldn’t naturally be found together. Some of them even contain non-native species. Emorsgate and Landlife Wildflowers seem reasonable bets (I have no connection with either).
  2. Make sure that the area isn’t already important for wildlife. Old mossy lawns can be great for fungi and a few gardens may have rare, or even legally protected plants hiding in quiet corners.
  3. There is no use planting a meadow in a lawn; wildflowers are overwhelmed by ryegrass and will be lost, even if they manage to germinate. Stripping out the topsoil and bringing in low nutrient soil is the easiest way.
  4. Spread seeds thinly. Otherwise a few fast growing species take over.
  5. Keep the sward (the generic term for flowers plus grasses) fairly low in the first year, and cut once a year after midsummer thereafter. It’s important to remove all the cuttings because otherwise they’ll rot down and increase the nutrient levels in the soil.

And then, just see what happens.

Garden meadow2 June 23

13 responses to “After the Woodchips”

  1. That’s a beautiful transformation, Adele.

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  2. Wonderful idea. All that work certainly paid off with beautiful results!

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    1. It’s very nice to look out the window and see a small, but very busy meadow doing its thing 🙂

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  3. I remember your first post about this. How great that your work has paid off so well.

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    1. I did have my moments of wondering last summer when it was so hot and dry! But then, wild plants are used to living in harsh environments.

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  4. Low nutrient soil vs high nutrient soil confused me, I would assume high nutrient soil is better.
    A lot of knowledge behind all of that!!!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yes, I can understand that. But increasing the nutrients in the soil changes the natural balance; it benefits aggressive species like ryegrass, stinging nettles and white clover which then become a problem. Of course, if you are growing something specific like potatoes, high nutrient soil can make sense. Wildflowers prefer a harsher environment.

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  5. To quote a famous film, “If you build it, they will come.” 🙂

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    1. And indeed they have – I’ve just been watching a longhorn beetle out there 🙂

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  6. That’s really interesting and gives me hope for our garden. We have lots of poor soil, dry and chalky. Most proper plants fail quite quickly, but the weeds thrive!

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    1. Sounds perfect for establishing some lovely chalk grassland species! If it’s still really chalky it’s probably quite nutrient-poor and things like small scabious and kidney vetch ought to do well.

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      1. We may have some scabious – it sounds familiar!

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